L’Islande, belle été comme hiver: magazine M
La photographe Cindy Boyce s’est rendue en sol islandais à deux reprises, en novembre et en juin, et nous présente les bons plans et les sublimes beautés de ce pays nordique…. toutes saisons confondues!
103 000 km2
330 000 habitants
50 000 chevaux
Des millions de macareux
Des centaines de milliers de moutons
Reykjavik
À seulement 50 km de l’aéroport international Keflavik, la capitale est l’endroit par excellence où débuter son séjour en sol islandais. Près de la moitié de la population habite dans cette ville colorée et dynamique. C’est à l’église Hallgrímskirkja qu’il faut se rendre pour débuter son séjour. L’architecture à elle seule vaut le détour, avec sa forme d’orgues basaltiques qui rappelle les formations géologiques présentes dans le pays à l’état naturel.
Monter à son sommet, haut de 75 mètres, offre un panorama incomparable sur la ville.
On se dirige ensuite vers la rue animée Bankastraeti, où nous prenons le pouls de cette ville qui vibre de créativité: boutiques, galeries, restos et pubs défilent. L’été, l’artère est fermée à la circulation automobile, des expositions sont installées dans les rues adjacentes, des matchs de foot sont projetés à l’extérieur. L’hiver, les gens se pressent davantage dans leurs déplacements, mais même les vents froids et les températures sous zéro n’empêchent pas les Islandais de commander un cornet de crème glacée molle au kiosque du coin, ou de déguster un hot-dog de fin de soirée dans un stand ambulant. Peu importe la saison à laquelle on visite la capitale, on s’arrête au Kaffibarinn prendre une (ou plusieurs!) pinte de bière Egils Gull, tout de suite après être allés au Fiskmarkaðurinn goûter aux saveurs locales (chaudrée de homard, requin fermenté, gravlax de saumon et autres délices de la mer). Si, comme nous, vous faites coïncider votre visite à Reykjavik avec un de ses festivals de musique, vous verrez que la ville toute entière est prise d’assaut. Un spectacle n’attend pas l’autre dans plusieurs lieux; restaurants, bars, librairies; tous les endroits se prêtent à la découverte du talent artistique (islandais ou groupes invités). Lors de notre passage au festival Iceland Airwaves en 2012, Half Moon Run, Of Monsters and Man, Sóley, entre autres, étaient de la programmation. Cette année, c’est plus de 220 artistes dont Björk, Mùm et FM Belfast, qui réchaufferont les pistes de danse du 2 au 6 novembre. Le Secret Solstice, quant à lui, est un festival de musique qui se déroule en juin, en plein solstice d’été (d’où son surnom Midnight Sun Music Festival). Soleil éternel et température clémente (quand même froide pour nos standards!) sont de la partie pour les trois jours du festival. Écouter un spectacle en plein air sous le soleil de minuit? On dit oui!
Péninsule de Snæfellsnes, ouest
Peu importe la durée de son séjour en Islande, il est de mise de partir en escapade hors de la capitale. À seulement deux heures de route de Reykjavik, la péninsule de Snæfellsnes est un incontournable: vestige d’une éruption volcanique, le sol est plaqué de lave recouverte d’un épais tapis vert moelleux. En sillonnant les routes de cette péninsule, on s’émerveille par la flore islandaise si fragile et si belle: des petites fleurs sauvages poussent de manière insolite ici et là, parsemant le tapis verdâtre de couleurs éclatantes. Des dizaines de trios de moutons s’y promènent, et malgré leur caractère farouche, on peut tenter de s’en approcher, juste avant de reprendre la route vers le village Stykkisholmur pour y passer la nuit.
Akureyri, nord
Nous poursuivons notre escapade vers la deuxième plus grande ville du pays, Akureyri. Afin de s’y rendre, on emprunte de longs tunnels creusés à même les fjords, pour rejoindre Siglufjörður, un charmant village de pêcheurs: au loin, des montagnes recouvertes de neige (même en été!), des maisons colorées, un port photogénique, des bateaux accostés.
En arrêtant faire le plein, on se laisse tenter par un pylsur (hot dog), véritable mets emblématique du fast food islandais. La saucisse d’agneau, de porc et de boeuf, garnie d’oignons frais et frits, nappée de ketchup, mayo et pylsusinnep (une moutarde islandaise) nous permet de tenir le coup pour les quelques kilomètres séparant Siglufjörður à Akureyri! Arrivés dans la ville, une balade au Jardin Botanique est de mise; quelque 6000 variétés de fleurs, d’arbres et autres plantes en provenance du monde entier (ainsi qu’environ 400 espèces typiques d’Islande) bordent les sentiers. On flâne au joli café vitré Kaffi Laut, afin d’y casser la croûte, juste avant de se rendre à la piscine municipale, la Sundlaug Akureyrar, pour rejoindre les gens du quartier: séance de longueurs dans la piscine chauffée naturellement, relaxation dans un bassin à 36 degrés; la belle vie quoi! On se laisse bercer par l’eau chaude, la vapeur nous enveloppe, et la dernière chose à laquelle on pense est de sortir! Été comme hiver, la piscine municipale est le lieu de rencontre des Islandais. Ici, la vie nocturne est sans conteste moins intense qu’à Reykjavik, mais on trouve tout de même une bonne offre de restaurants et bars animés en se promenant sur l’avenue Hafnarstræti.
Borgarfjörður et Seyðisfjörður, est
Lorsque les conditions routières le permettent, il est fort intéressant de sortir de la route 01 (communément appelée route circulaire) pour visiter des endroits plus éloignés, comme les fjords de l’est. À Borgarfjödur, on a pu admirer des centaines de macareux, oiseau emblème du pays, tandis qu’à Seyðisfjörður, fjord un peu plus fréquenté, on a découvert les oeuvres d’artistes en résidence (islandais ou d’origine internationale) du Centre d’Art Skaftell. Au Bistrot Skaftell, situé juste sous la galerie, nous nous sommes laissés séduire par une soupe traditionnelle à l’agneau fraîchement préparée.
Jökulsárlón, Landmannalaugar, sud
Le Jökulsárlón (littéralement lagune des glaciers, en islandais) est le plus grand lac proglaciaire en Islande. De la rive, on peut observer les blocs de glace se détachant du glacier Vatnajökull. On peut aussi faire un tour de bateau pour les voir de plus près. Dépaysement garanti!
Pour compléter notre séjour, on a fait une excursion en Super Jeep avec les guides de Southcoast Adventure vers le Landmannalaugar, considéré par bien des ouvrages comme l’un des plus spectaculaires endroits de l’Islande. Fin juin, les routes venaient d’ouvrir, et on devait traverser des rivières créées par la fonte des neiges. Situé à l’intérieur des terres, le site est à faire rêver: l’activité volcanique a créé des cratères aux teintes rougeâtres, et les montagnes qui les bordent sont multicolores. L’endroit est très prisé par les randonneurs: un circuit de quatre jours est d’ailleurs offert aux plus braves, du Landmannalaugar à Porsmörk.
Blue Lagoon, sud/ouest
À proximité de l’aéroport, le Blue Lagoon est l’endroit par excellence où terminer son séjour. Rien de mieux qu’une baignade dans l’eau sulfureuse bleutée du célèbre lagon pour relaxer et faire le point sur son passage au pays du feu et de la glace…. avant de rentrer à la maison! Cette station thermale (creusée à même la roche volcanique) possède une eau naturellement riche en sels minéraux et en algues, ce qui lui donne des des propriétés curatives pour traiter certaines peaux atypiques comme l’eczéma et le psoriasis.
Collaboration avec le Magazine M de La Presse.
Photos et texte par Cindy Boyce
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